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Climbing in an exceptional setting

Around Saint-Lary

You’ll find two magnificent limestone cliffs, major in the Central Pyrenees, and accessible at the entrance to the Aure valley.

The great routes of the Néouvielle massif as well as the climbing sectors on the Spanish side are also not to be missed.

Emblematic cliffs

in the Aure valley
Pene Haute

Access begins via a forest track from Rebouc to the Col d’Estivère (see details in the topos).

Then expect a fine approach walk through a beech forest before the path opens onto this majestic hundred-meter-high limestone cliff, with its benchmark “Vol du Sphinx” sector in the foreground.

This major cliff is part of the history of climbing in the Pyrenees.It is characterized by the excellence of its rock and its exceptional setting, with a breathtaking view over the Aure valley.
In an old school style, Pène Haute presents demanding routes on beautiful slabs, vertical and domed walls. With nearly 200 pitches from 4 to 8c, and an entry ticket for 4c, it’s mainly from 6a that you’ll start to have a choice.

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Suberpene

Access: take a forest track from Hèches, which is then climbed on foot in its private section.(see details in the topos).

500m long, Suberpène is a magnificent limestone cliff much appreciated in view of its regular frequentation.
This rocky bar unrolls several sectors in the same type of rock as Pène Haute, but with almost 60 more affordable routes, between 4 and 6 out of the 200 that the cliff counts.

Here, the rock is varied with slabs, mono, bi-fingers and even columns!
Note: MJC, the great route that has become a classic in the sector is accomplished in 4 pitches in 5/6.

Climbing

On the Spanish side

Saint-Lary being located at the gateway to Spain, it would be a shame not to pass the Bielsa tunnel to discover the Aragonese cliffs.
The first sectors (Révilla, Bielsa, Las Devotas,…) are in fact less than an hour’s drive away, and setting off towards the southern slopes of the Pyrenees means being surprised by a real change of scenery!

You’ll find access and grading information for these sectors in the GRIMPE EN VALLEES D’AURE ET DU CINCA topo-guide . Beware of the exposure of the routes, it can get very hot there in summer!

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