Hiking on the Arbizon

There are two ways to hike to the Arbizon: from Hourquette d’Ancizan along a path I’m told is quite steep, or from the Granges de Lurgues high above the beautiful village of Aulon. To get there, take the road leading to Aulon in the village of Guchen, between Arreau and Saint-Lary Soulan. In the right-hand bend at the foot of the village of Aulon, take the small road on the left that leads to the Granges de Lurgues, 3km away. This takes you to the parking lot. The difference in altitude from the parking area is around 1,430 meters: not everyone can make the climb, but if you’re not sporty, there’s nothing to stop you from walking the lower part of the path – the Lavedan valley is very pretty!

The stony path initially winds smoothly between chestnut trees, facing Pic Mail, quiet in the early morning. The walk is very pleasant and I’m lucky enough to spot a deer lunching in a small clearing on the opposite slope.

After 30 minutes, I reach the junction with the path leading to the Auloueilh hut: I squeeze to the right and up a slightly steeper slope, but without difficulty, I reach the Espigous hut and its sheep pen. A glance back allows me to admire the colors of the ridges visible at the bottom of the valley, already bathed in sunshine.

After 45 minutes and the hut I leave on my left, I have to slow down my steps: things are getting serious! The path runs alongside a torrent that’s fairly calm at this time of year, in an open, grassy valley. I barely disturb the numerous sheep. Faded further down the valley, the straggling Pyrenean iris finally offer me magnificent colors under the first raking sunbeams, which finally join me for this magnificent day.

I finally reach the Fontaine de Coulariot, which literally gushes out of the rock. It’s about halfway along the trail and the perfect place for a welcome first break.

After catching my breath, I set off again, climbing two successive chimneys (chimneys are steeps located between rocks, where you sometimes have to put your hands) before a flat spot that offers apretty view over the valley, but also towards the Pla d’Adet and thegranges de Gascouéou.

The final ascent begins in numerous switchbacks enabling you to climb this impressive slope. I immediately stop my advance when I hear a noise: this type of terrain is perfect for observation as the slightest movement causes pebbles to shift. On the ridge to the right, above me, an isard has also spotted me and is heading for shelter under a rocky bar.

We watch each other for a few moments before the arrival of a couple behind me avert their gaze. He lies down to reveal only his head, and watches them. I wait for them, pointing out the lair of our discreet neighbor and allowing them to enjoy this encounter.

I finally reach the ridge halfway between the Pic de Montfaucon and l’Arbizon, whose summit I can finally see, hidden until now. The moon sets discreetly in the west behind Pic d’Aulon. Just above me, two vultures soar from valley to valley. At my feet, the vertiginous valley plunges down to the small Lac d’Arou: a magnificent vantage point!

I pick up the path that runs along the ridge a few meters below, on the rocks, and after forking off to my left, I finally reach the summit. An unsightly relay antenna and its solar panels mark the western end, while 5 cairns sit enthroned on the broad dome (cairns are heaps of stones designed to mark hiking trails or summits. Many hikers add their stone to these edifices when they have the joy of reaching them…) The largest cairn is impressive at around 2.5 metres. My ascent will have taken about 3h30.

After covering myself a little more warmly (it’s not cold, but the perspiration under the rucksack imposes this precaution), I begin the observation. To the north, the plain comes into view, with a cloudier sky in the distance. Bagnères de Bigorre is clearly visible and I can make out Tarbes without any problem.